The rise of permanent jewellery and where to get it in Aotearoa

Celebrities and the ultra-rich have the Cartier Love bracelet, the almost $13,000 screwdriver fastened wrist decoration that Kylie Jenner got stuck in for four years, but TikTok users and hens parties of more limited means have discovered an affordable option – permanent jewellery.

A modern version of a friendship bracelet, permanent jewellery is essentially a clasp free bracelet, necklace or anklet that sees a chain fitted to your wrist, neck or ankle, then soldered closed with a little jump loop.

There's a custom appeal to these pieces: they are soldered to your exact wrist, neck or ankle size, so you don't get a loose fit like you can with generic or pre-fabricated pieces. They also offer some practical benefits over removable designs.

Christine Clarke, who offers permanent jewellery to Christchurch residents through her brand Infinity Jewellery, says it's a good option for people who don't like taking their jewellery on and off – as well as "older people who are a little bit fumbly with their fingers, they can just keep it on."

Ultimately though, more so than any tactile advantages, online crazes are the main driver behind the rise in popularity.

"I think TikTok has made it really trendy," explains Tarin Sheehan, who has extended the menu at her Warkworth tanning and teeth whitening salon Glow by 67 to include the service.

"In my view, it's a trend that's come up through social media – people jumping on bandwagon. That's 99% of my clients."

Clarke's interest was sparked in London last year when she stumbled across a studio offering the service and was told their appointments booked weeks in advance.

Sheehan was put onto the concept by other businesses she follows online who were offering the service, and she sensed a gap in the local market.

Both have been offering permanent jewellery for less than a year. Clarke started in January and Sheehan at the end of last year, but each remarked on how surprised they’d been with the popularity– largely driven through social media.

"I've had people booking in from Hamilton. I've got a lady and her husband booked in, and they’re doing a weekend trip from Tauranga, I've had people who have found me who are visiting from overseas," remarked Sheehan.

Clarke and Sheehan both purchased their micro-welding equipment and online training modules from US companies and Clarke says while this investment required "quite a bit of money" upfront, the service was popular from the get go.

"I expected that it would take me probably two months to get that money back, and it literally took me two weeks. It's just so popular, and I'm probably doing about 30 bracelets a week."

Both use sterling silver or gold filled metal, which Clarke says "has 100x more gold alloy than a gold-plated" alternative, while being more affordable than solid gold.

That will likely appeal to the younger, more budget conscious younger clients who are most interested in this trend. The majority of Clarke's clients are between 18-30 years old, though recently she's seen mums coming in with their daughters, or bringing their own mums. "I get quite a lot of couples coming in too."

Sheehan's prices start from $45 for a silver bracelet, gold is $10 extra and Sheehan's pricing starts from $55 and $63.

With a ‘permanent’ product, longevity is of paramount importance. Clarke expects the gold filled materials to last five to seven years of continuous wear without tarnishing, though with this type of jewellery being relatively new, that hasn't been road tested for a significant length yet.

Despite the name, both Clarke and Sheehan pointed out that permanent jewellery isn't actually permanent, it can be easily removed with wire cutters should the need arise – say if you require an MRI. And should they need, the chains will break if under a stress point, which Sheehan points out if actually a good thing.

"It's not indestructible. If it's snagged or caught, it's a fine chain, it will break – it should break. You never want to be in a situation where your chain catches on something you pull and the chains still on your arm, but you've got a skin injury, a de-gloving kind of injury."

Outside the influence of TikTok marketing, Clarke thinks the popularity of permanent jewellery could be attributed to a desire for a way to mark a connection in a way less indissoluble than traditional methods.

"I think the permanent bracelets are popular because people want to be connected to another person," she says, noting they’re becoming more popular with couples and hens parties. It's less permanent than a tattoo, but a matching ‘permanent’ bracelet is an easy alternative.

And to answer the most common question Clarke and Sheehan encounter: yes, they are fine to go through airport security.